I keep a small collection of dart frogs. Most of my collection is represented by color morphs of Dendrobates tinctorius, a medium to large sized species that shows tremendous variation in color from population to population based on their locale. I keep two dwarf varieties of “tincs” – the “Bakhuis” morph and the very uncommon “Lorenzo” morph. I know of only a handful of people currently keeping and attempting to breed Lorenzos, so they have become one of my special projects. I also keep the less common “True Sipaliwini” morph and a red morph of Adelphobates galactonotus.
More recently I have been adding thumbnails from the Ranitomeya genus including Ranitomeya sirensis “highland lamasi” (also referred to as “Tingo Maria”), Ranitomeya fantastica “True Nominal”, and Ranitomeya summersi “Sauce” region.
Though they are known as poison dart frogs, they do not produce their famous toxins in captivity, and only three of the hundreds of Dendrobatids are known to produce poisons with sufficient toxicity to kill a person. It is believed these frogs require a special native diet to produce their toxins, a diet that contains insects with high concentrations of alkaloids that are concentrated in the frogs’ skin. Captive bred animals are raised on a diet of live fruit flies, springtails and isopods, and they are unable to obtain toxins from their diet.
Dr. Jason Brown’s article on poison frog toxicity.
Dart frog morphs I keep
You can click on the names or photos below to open a page detailing each morph I keep. I have been specializing in Dentrobates tinctorius “Lorenzo” recently. I currently have 6 adults, and I will be moving to 10 adults in 2015. I hope to use them to setup a breeding program that will help bring them back to a greater presence in the hobby.
Dendrobates tinctorius “Lorenzo” (30 to 35mm svl)
Ranitomeya fantastica “true nominal” (~20mm svl)
Ranitomeya sirensis “highland lamasi” (~15 to 18mm svl)
Ranitomeya summersi “Sauce” (~20mm svl)
Adelphobates galactonotus “Red” (~40mm svl)
Dendrobates tinctorius “Azureus” (40 to 45mm svl)
Dendrobates tinctorius “True Sipaliwini” (40 to 45mm svl)
Dendrobates tinctorius “Bakhuis” (30 to 35mm svl)
I offer offspring from my collection for sale periodically depending on which morphs are producing at any given time. Contact me if you would like to be placed on my wait list for any specific morph and I will contact you when I have animals available. Here’s my current list of available frogs:
Enjoying dart frogs
How big is a dart frog?
Dart frog sizes are typically represented as the “snout to vent length” or “SVL”, usually in millimeters. Smaller darts known as thumbnails are typically under 20 mm in SVL, while larger darts like tinctorius can range upwards of 50 mm. I’ve provided two examples of SVL measurements below, one for a Lorenzo female on the left, and a Robertus female on the right. The Lorenzo is about 35 mm SVL while the Robertus is about 50 mm. Female dart frogs are larger than males, so these examples are of the larger sexes.
Morph pictures and information
These links are repeated from the links presented in the images above. The pages presented in these links have information on the various morphs that I keep and pictures of my frogs.
The first dart frogs we acquired were Dendrobates tinctorius ‘azureus’ commonly called the blue dart frog. This is a fairly large “tinc” that is quite bold, meaning it is regularly visible, out and about in it’s terrarium. We bought two, and it turned out we had a male and a female. We are now actively breeding these frogs – it’s a true joy to watch the life cycle of a frog with your kids! These are our first, and likely favorite darts.
Dendrobates tinctorius ‘true sipaliwini’ is a less common tinc morph in the US hobby. Our three frogs are F1 offspring from a pair of animals imported by the National Aquarium (NAIB) in the 1990’s. The pair was acquired by Sean Stewart of Herpetologic who produced these frogs. They are a robust frog that is quite bold. Their yellow crests are quite striking.
Dendrobates tinctorius ‘Robertus’ is a new morph in the hobby. Robertus are reported to be from southwestern Suriname, near the Brazilian border. I have not seen captive bred animals result from the 2013 import. My pair are from a highly variable May 2014 import that included animals ranging from a deep blue with black markings similar to a Koetari River tinc, through yellow crested animals similar to true sips, to high yellow animals like my pair that have a yellow crest and yellow belly. They are quite unusual.
Dendrobates tinctorius ‘lorenzo’ is a less common tinc morph in the US hobby. It is a dwarf morph of Dendrobates tinctorius, and it is known to be more difficult to breed. They are less bold than our azureus and true sipaliwini morphs. There coloration is unusual, with a deep blue / black base color and a brilliant iridescent yellow/orange crest that fades down the back.
Dendrobates tinctorius ‘bakhuis’ is another dwarf morph. These are bold frogs as well, easily visible in the vivarium. Our group of four was acquired for DJ’s vivarium. He is very interested in frogs and wanted his own…so now he has them!
Ranitomeya sirensis “Tingo Maria” was formerly known as Ranitomeya lamasi, also referred to as highland lamasi. This is my first thumbnail frog. It is an uncommon frog in the hobby, with a reputation for being more difficult to breed. I have setup a group of 6 animals with the hopes of helping to continue maintaining this morph in the hobby.
We have 8 Adelphobates galactonotus (red morph) that will eventually be housed together in one large vivarium. They do well in groups (unlike tincs which often show aggression between animals of the same sex). The “red galacs” tend to be more shy than the tincs, so they often retreat to their hiding places when you enter the room. More careful consideration in vivarium design needs to be given to ensure they have places to hide but sill allow for viewing.
Vivarium construction and modifications
One of the most enjoyable activities [for me] associated with keeping dart frogs is building and maintaining their vivarium. A vivarium is basically a terrarium containing animals. In general, a vivarium is composed of a glass enclosure, vented glass top, a “false bottom” for drainage, substrate (soil, charcoal, sphagnum, turface, etc), hardscaping, plants, misting systems and lighting. You can go simple or complex. These links look at a few construction projects I have taken on:
- Creating a D. tinctorius friendly vivarium
- MistKing RCT-24 timer review
- Vivarium lighting
- Circulation fans in the vivarium
- Plants in the vivarium
- Orchids in the dart frog vivarium
- Building a vivarium stand
- Field temperature and humidity profiling
- Vivarium temperature and humidty profiling
- Dart frog resoureces, forums, breeders, vendors
Purchasing your dart frogs
Buy frogs only from a reputable source, whether that is a hobbyist or a commercial vendor. Check feedback at hobby forums like www.dartden.com. Do your research – there’s at least one large scale vendor out there claiming to have inventories of thousands of frogs that is pushing completely incorrect science on dart frogs and locale specific morphs. They have no understanding of how local populations of Dendrobates tinctorius develop, and are mismanaging their lines while encouraging others to do so as well. Do not buy hybrids, or from people that breed and raise hybrids. The lineage of frogs is held in high regard in this hobby – if you have any desire to sell offspring, only buy from respected vendors.
My recommendations on purchasing your frogs:
- Select your frog. Research. Figure out what frog is best for you. In my case, I wanted bold frogs that were visible, so my collection is dominated by D. tinctorius. There are lots of great resources on the web for finding information on a variety of morphs. If you can’t find information, consider posting to a forum to get answers from other hobbyists. I use www.dartden.com.
- Prepare for your frogs. Prep your enclosure and learn to culture flies before you get your frogs.
- Don’t buy wild caught frogs. Leave the care of legally acquired wild caught frogs to more advanced hobbyists. These types of frogs often require a higher degree of care and medical attention than captive bred frogs, and buying captive bred promotes conservation of the animals we have, reducing demand on wild populations.
- Know your breeder. Research your breeder. There are good feedback forums on the web where you can research the breeder you have selected.
- Know your frogs lineage. Be diligent about tracking the lineage of your frogs. If possible, track the generation from wild caught. If a breeder cannot trace their lineages back at least one generation, or if they cannot specify line data back to an import, move on to a different breeder.
- Quarantine. No matter how great your breeder is, you should still quarantine your new frogs and monitor them for any issues. You can never be too careful, especially as the size of your collection grows.
- Test your frogs. It’s good to buy frogs from a breeder or hobbyist that regularly screens their collection for pathogens (e.g. parasites, BD and RV), but you should conduct screening tests yourself. As your collection grows, this will become more important to ensure you protect your collection from incoming issues.
- Hybrids. Understand that hybrids in the dart frog hobby are frowned upon. The hobby has worked hard maintaining locale specific lines of color morphs that have developed over time in the hope of reducing the stress on wild populations. The careful management of captive bred animals is critical to reducing this pressure. There was a recent dust up with a family that started breeding designer / ornamental / hybrid frogs by crossing populations and in some cases species of dart frogs to attain certain “looks” that might resemble existing, rare populations. They are attempting to flood the market with low cost frogs of unknown lines that have potentially been crossed. Literally thousands of suspect animals are now on the market. Be careful. Research. Know your lineage. I do not recommend buying from anyone that breeds hybrids. Period.
I always recommend buying your frogs from a local hobbyist or an established online vendor with excellent feedback or a good reputation. Local hobbyists are a great way to meet a local resource that can answer your questions and provide advice. It also allows you to check out your animals before you take them home. There are also many reputable online sources to purchase your frogs – I have bought many frogs from Sean Stewart at herptelogic.com, Patrick Nabors at saurian.net, and Understory Enterprises. All are long time vendors with excellent reputations.
You can also find a great list of advice at Amphibian Ark:
Associations and Conservation
There are a number of associations in the hobby that vary in their levels of activity. Some of the more well known organizations within this niche hobby are:
Dart frog care and breeding
I’ve been in the hobby for less than 2 years as of this posting, but we’ve been lucky enough to grow out a proven pair of azureus. The following link highlights calling, breeding and rearing of Dendrobates tinctorius azureus.
- Dart frog food – culturing fruit flies
- Testing dart frogs for Chytrid, Ranavirus and parasites
- Sexing Dendrobates tinctorius “Azureus” dart frog
- Dendrobates tinctorius “Azureus” dart frog breeding
- Dendrobates tinctorius “Azureus” dart froglet emerging
- Dendrobates tinctorius “Azureus” bubble tadpole development
- Treating a dart frog nose rub